La Route

 La Route
 
 
 
 
Voici un article consacré aux routes du monde. Du moins, celles qu’on a déjà eu la chance de parcourir. Il s’agit donc d’un article qui ne cessera de s’étoffer au fil des voyages. 
 
Les routes sont un paradoxe pour les amoureux de nature puisque synonymes de modernité, d’avancées, d’accessibilité. Mais parfois, et surtout aux Etats-Unis, pays du road-trip par excellence, elles sont presque à l’origine d’un voyage : La Route 66 bien sûr, la Highway 1 qui longe la côte californienne, la Tioga Pass Road traversant Yosemite sur laquelle on a l’impression de voler plus que de rouler…
 
Elles sont autant d’occasions de faire des photos, que de ne pas en faire en continuant à se laisser porter par celles-ci. On pourrait leur consacrer un voyage complet, ce qui est d’ailleurs le cas lorsqu’on fait la “Road 66” et bien souvent, on a envie de s’arrêter tous les 100m. 
 
Pour illustrer cet article, on a choisi de ne mettre que des photos prises avec nos reflex. Nous en avons beaucoup d’autres, prises avec un petit compact qu’on utilise pour les photos souvenir. Le but n’est pas forcément de mettre toutes les photos de route qu’on a, mais celles qu’on considère suffisamment intéressantes et réussies pour être partagées. De fait, il n’y a pas de photos de la route 66, ni de celle qui traverse le Zion National Park, alors que cette dernière est tout à fait superbe puisqu’elle est recouverte d’un revêtement rouge s’adaptant parfaitement à son environnement (sont forts ces ricains).
 
 

Les Etats-Unis :

 

Voici la photo qui m’a donné envie de faire cet article :

 

 
Elle a été prise depuis la voiture, comme pour la plupart des images d’ailleurs. Nous venions d’entrer dans le parc national de Yosemite, par la Tiago Pass. Ce moment où le soleil est tellement bas qu’il en devient aveuglant au point de ne plus voir la route pendant quelques secondes est incroyable. On se souviendra de ce moment toute notre vie. A ce moment là, nous avions réservés un hôtel à Mammoth Lake (d’où l’intérêt de ne pas réserver tous ses logements trop longtemps à l’avance mais au mois d’août c’est plus risqué), mais nous étions tellement pressés de découvrir le parc que nous n’avons pas pu résister. Cette lumière fut (entre autre) notre récompense.
 
 
 
 
Autre endroit, autre ambiance. L’Amérique telle qu’on la connaît dans les films de cowboys. Des formations rocheuses uniques au monde la jalonne. Il s’agit de la route 163 menant au célèbre site de Monument Valley. On se demande d’ailleurs quel spectacle nous attend une fois arrivés puisque celui dévoilé sur la route est déjà une claque monument(ale). On est littéralement transportés dans une autre époque.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Puis on entre sur le site et là…
 
 
 
 
La route allant de Las Vegas vers la Death Valley est incroyable. 200km de traversée du désert. Mais quand la lumière s’en mêle, la frustration d’être sur la route plutôt que dans la Vallée de la Mort est oubliée.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Death Valley au mois d’août c’est la mort (ahaha !!). Il fait une chaleur difficilement supportable (mieux vaut se lever tôt et ne pas traîner). Mais alors routistiquement, on fait difficilement plus saisissant.
 
La route depuis la petite ville de Beatty, à l’entrée Est du plus grand parc national des Etats-Unis du Nord, descend lentement sous le niveau de la mer, jusqu’à -200m. Il est encore temps de faire marche arrière, mais la tentation d’entrer dans le four est trop grande. Et puis il faut le dire, la climatisation dans la voiture aide pas mal à supporter l’épreuve. On avait souvent lu qu’il fallait faire attention avant d’entre dans la Vallée de la Mort. Qu’il fallait passer par la case “révision de la voiture” juste avant, qu’il fallait au moins 5 litres d’eau par personne etc etc. Si comme nous vous ne faîtes que traverser le parc d’Est en Ouest il n’est vraiment pas nécessaire de se prendre la tête. La température aura par exemple était plus élevée à Las Vegas (environ 45 degrés) que dans la Vallée de la Mort (d’où l’intérêt de partir tôt).
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Quitter la Death Valley c’est aussi entrer en Californie. Même si techniquement on y était déjà. Mais quand les premières montagnes de la Sierra Nevada pointent le bout de leurs cimes, c’est un autre voyage qui débute.
 
 
 
 
 
On retourne donc à Yosemite, sur la Tioga Road. Une route fermée l’hiver (qui dure plus ou moins tardivement selon les années) puisqu’on arrive vraiment sur une route de montagne, dont certaines portions sont à plus de 3000m d’altitude !
 
 
 
 
 
Le voyage touche à sa fin. Lorsqu’on sort du parc de Yosemite pour aller vers la côte Ouest, la route se fait moins charmante. Mais les images typiques des Etats-Unis restent en tête avec ces très longues lignes droites traversant des paysages arides prêts à s’enflammer à la moindre étincelle (la Californie était touchée par une grosse vague d’incendie lors de notre passage en août 2016, et on comprends pourquoi).
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
La Highway 1 fait également partie des routes incontournables lors d’un road trip dans l’Ouest américain. Elle longe une longue partie de la côte Ouest, de San Francisco à Los Angeles. Pourquoi je n’ai pas fait plus de photo de cette route ? Je n’ai pas vraiment d’explication. La lumière n’y était pas, il faisait plus frais, et parfois, on a simplement envie de conduire et d’apprécier. Ce qui aura finalement été le cas sur la majorité du tracé de 4000km qui aura été le nôtre.
 
On aimerai y retourner rien que pour faire des photos de ces routes. Mais la première fois est toujours la meilleure, et ce côté “one shot” qu’on a avec Nathalie de faire nos photos fait que si on y allait exprès, on se mettrait peut être une pression qui n’existait pas lors de notre road trip.
 
Dans un road trip on roule beaucoup. Forcément. C’est fatigant. Mais on est aussi en vacances, autant qu’en voyage. Par conséquent, on ne peut pas s’arrêter derrière tous les virages nous offrant de nouveaux points de vue. Et en général, lorsque le soleil se couche, on est plus souvent sur un spot pour apprécier le sunset avec une bière que dans la voiture. Il s’agit donc d’une série d’opportunités, de moments choisis, d’envies.
 
 
 

 

Les routes américaines sont associées aux belles voitures américaines. Elles font partie intégrante du paysage. On rêve d’un road trip en Mustang décapotable. Tout cela ramène à tous ces films et séries qu’on a pu voir, et qu’on voit encore, dans lesquels les voitures, les routes, et certaines villes américaines (on pense évidemment à New York et San Francisco), font partie intégrante de l’histoire.

 

 


 

Autre élément associé à la route et au road trip aux Etats-Unis : le motel. Pratique, plutôt économique, relativement confortable, le motel fera partie de votre voyage. C’est d’ailleurs le seul souvenir que nous garderons de la ville de Phoenix, depuis laquelle notre road trip a débuté : tu ouvres les yeux, les rideaux, le soleil se lève, la chaleur est douce, tu vois ta voiture, tu sais que tout vas commencer.

 

 

 

Si vous avez aimé ce petit article, vous pouvez lire l’intégralité du récit ici : Road trip dans l’Ouest américain

 

L’Ecosse :

 

L’Ecosse est un petit pays. Mais ses routes sont grandes. On dirait un extrait de pub pas très inspirée j’en conviens. Mais de notre virée de 3 jours, la route depuis menant d’Edimbourg à Glencoe a été le moment fort du voyage. Quand on part peu de temps dans un pays, on peut décider de rester au même endroit afin de bien approfondir celui-ci. Mais notre envie de nature nous a poussé à quitter la ville pour découvrir les paysages des Highlands. Comme je l’écrivais plus haut, le paradoxe entre l’envie de nature et l’appréciation de la route existe. Les routes fendent le paysage. Elles cassent une partie de la beauté sauvage d’un lieu.

Mais sans elles, nous n’aurions pas accès à ces incroyables sites que l’on peut facilement visiter partout dans le monde. Il faut savoir s’en éloigner, ou emprunter des chemins de traverse, qui sont alors autant d’occasions de découvertes souvent magiques. Je pense notamment à cette petite route sur laquelle le soleil a fait une percée magique après une journée typiquement écossaise. Comprenez pluvieuse.

 

 

Quand tu roules sans savoir à quoi t’attendre et que tu aperçois les premiers sommets enneigés, plusieurs sentiments s’emparent de toi. Le paysage est aussi magique qu’inquiétant. On imagine pas du tout de quoi sera fait la suite du voyage. Et alors que la première partie de la route était déjà superbe, le meilleur reste à venir !

 

 

Mais c’est la route menant à Glencoe qui nous a le plus marqué. Il faut dire que lorsqu’on l’a emprunté on a été particulièrement gâtés par la lumière :
 
 
 
 
 
 
Retrouvez le récit complet du voyage ici : 3 jours en Ecosse
 

Le Canada :

 

Pays synonyme de grands espaces, le Canada est bien placé dans la course des meilleurs pays pour réaliser un road trip.

Notre expérience ne nous permettra pas d’être hyper catégoriques à ce sujet, puisque nous avons découverts le Québec en hiver. De fait, les paysages sous la neige se ressemblent un peu tous, et les endroits que l’on a traversés ne sont pas aussi marquants que dans l’Ouest américain. Toutefois, le plaisir de conduire, surtout à cette saison, existe bel et bien (merci les pneus hiver).

On sent bien que le pays possède cette culture de la route et de la conduite typique de l’Amérique. Point important à souligner et non négligeable dans le plaisir de conduire : les routes sont gratuites. On trouve des stations essence à tous les carrefours, et il n’y a pas de ralentisseurs ou de ronds point partout, qui rendent la conduite assez pénible chez nous en France.

Il y a également quelque chose de très pratique aux Etats-Unis : on trouve des panneaux de direction des 4 points cardinaux à chaque intersection. Du coup il est très simple de se repérer. Par exemple, si vous êtes à Montréal et que vous cherchez l’aéroport, suivez la direction “West”, et vous y arriverez forcément.

 

 
 
 
Le récit complet du séjour au Quebec est ici : Une semaine au Quebec
 
La vidéo est ici
 
 
 
This entry was posted in Canada, Ecosse, Road Trip, Travel, USA, Voyage.

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